iD Dunedin Crowns Emerging Designer Winner

From all corners, crevices, nooks and crannies of the globe, up and coming designers emerged from the woodworks for Dunedin iD week’s Emerging Designer Awards. The 28 finalists were each unique in their personality and designs which made this years awards a colourful conglomeration of talent.

Although each collection was so different in design and technique there were definitely some trends in terms of context and rationale. The most prevalent trend was definitely the topic of gender. A lot of questions on gender were asked and a few of this years finalists had their own in depth answers.

Sophie Hardy

Daphney Ho

Whitecliffe College of Art and Design’s Brooke Fairgray‘s collection “It’s what you do to me” was influenced and critiqued Salvidore Dali’s surrealist urge to understand mortality and sexuality. Fairgray composed an image of the Dalinian female with her flaming giraffe prints and sexually overt silhouettes establishing connections to Dali’s own sodomic tendencies and surrealist perspective.

Brooke Fairgray

What’s most impressive about this collection is that Fairgray was able to establish a balance between dipping into the surrealist tendencies of Dali himself yet has also created a collection which is as aesthetically pleasing to the eye as it is to the mind. Fairgray’s well draped dresses and bodices with oh so hot prism shoulders still make for a very marketable and well integrated collection.

Brooke Fairgray

Former Otago polytechnic student Laura Marshall explored the fine line between feminine and masculine with her menswear collection “Men in Men’s Clothing”. Marshall flipped the trend of emulating men’s fashion into womenswear (which we are seeing more and more of) and decided to take inspiration from recent women’s wear collections and Victorian menswear to form her most amazing and intricate collection.

Laura Marshall

The white and cream colour palette was complimentary to the detailing of the doily laced jackets and tight harem-like tights. A favourite was definitely her wound around white scarf /hood that up close you could see the doily like embroidering. It was minute details such as the embroidery and draped silhouettes which questioned the masculinity of Marshall’s designs.

Laura Marshall

But gender wasn’t the only topic being pondered, many of these emerging designers were raising the concept of sustainability. Recycled items, organic materials and eco friendly dyes featured in many of the night’s collections.

A stand out collection was that of Melanie Child who used recycled aluminium tear tabs to embellish a white shell and transform it into couture that wouldn’t look out of place on a Paris runway. Child’s exploration of reused and recycled materials challenges the way we perceive value and mass production of consumer goods.

Melanie Child

Sandra Tupu of AUT walked away with the prize for sustainability with her collection “Tatau” while exploring her own ground roots. Sandra created a “grounded down to earth feel” with her use of recycled natural fabrics, old blankets and antique flour bags. Although all recycled materials Tupu’s cropped and trench like jackets were amazing in their approach to drape and tailoring.

Sandra Tupu

With so many amazing collections to look at it is hard to pick a favourite. But in the good spirit of fashion reporting one must try so…

Ryoto Shiga of Sugino College in Japan had the most beautifully draped collection “UN” with subtle yet intricate surface designs. With a colour palette of whites, creams, ash reds and navy blues Shiga created a collection that just made you sigh. His cream draped cape flowed and whispered around the body as it came down the cat walk and his intricate Kimono inspired surface designs created a noticeable but not imposing point of difference.

Ryota Shiga

Glenn Yungnickel’s vivacious yet oh so well executed use of gradient reds in his collection “In the Red” was just a pleasure to the eye and burst of fresh air for the fashion lungs. It was truly refreshing to see a designer work with such a bold (and fashionable) colour and not be afraid to use it top to toe. Because Yungnickel, who is a former student of AUT, used the same colour dye for each of the different layers and fabrics so the tonal differences were harmonious when styled together in complimentary layers of his suit ensembles. It was also great to see some smaller collars and higher necklines combined with subtle gradients on panels for a zesty twist to the men’s blazer.

Glenn Yungnickel

As for the jewellery one designer stood out and that was Paula Kyle Walden. Walden’s collection “Inner Battles was influenced by art nouveau and art deco. Kyle Walden’s pieces looked amazing coming down the catwalk with her use of black enamel and cubic zirconia gems in nature inspired free-forms. The placement of her head pieces in relation to her shoulder pieces created such a balanced appearance the pieces look avant-garde and elegant.

Paula Kyle Walden

The designer who walked away with 1st place and instant entry to the Mittelmoda design awards was Croatian designer Igor Galas.

Igor Galas - Emerging Designer Winner

Galas dazzled the crown with his layers of hand knitted wool garments. His impressively draped back pieces would look almost alien like if is wasn’t for the soft textures and loose knit of his self knitted wool. Gala’s heavy draped hoods formed a immediate bee line, for the eye, down his silhouettes which were both structurally and aesthetically pleasing.

Igor Galas

Igor Galas

All in all it was a fantastic, fantasy like, forward thinking evening of fashion. The iD committee did a great job with this years emerging designers and it will be interesting to see what next years fantastic finalists bring to the table that is Dunedin iD’s Emerging Designer Awards.

Want to check out the iD Dunedin Gallery Slideshow? We have images of every collection that you can view by visiting our Designer Direction Slide Show.

Review by: Charlotte Carr
Photography: Michael Alexander McQueen

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Comments
4 Responses to “iD Dunedin Crowns Emerging Designer Winner”
  1. Hannah Alabaster says:

    Great review Charlotte, a primo synopsis of the iD Fashion Show for a complete fashion journalism virgin, but with enough detail for me to believe you have a truly wonderful sense of understanding of the designers, the industry and most of all the clothing. Tino pai rawa atu!!! Arohanui Hannah

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